The Guardian posted a story on January 20, 2025, called “The great non-alcoholic rip-off: why a booze-free drink costs as much as a pint”. The story is beer-centric, but briefly digresses into spirits, and touches on the differences in scale, production costs, and tax burdens.
An excerpt:
“It’s not that simple,” says Rob Fink, the founder of non-alcoholic brewery Big Drop.
Non-alcoholic drinks are no cheaper to produce
Brewers say that non-alcoholic drinks are no cheaper to produce despite the duty saving because drinkers are paying for the technological investment and the added time necessary to produce alcohol-free beers and spirits that actually taste good.
Luke Boase, the founder of Lucky Saint, says it costs more to produce his beer than it would a full-strength lager.
“We use amazing ingredients, and it’s a six-week brewing process. Then we have all of the additional costs to then remove the alcohol.”
Ed Gerard, chief commercial officer at Mocktails, a maker of non-alcoholic cocktails, says: “Most non-alcoholic versions have to go through an additional process, either removing the alcohol if it was brewed as alcoholic in the first place, like a beer, or if they’re brewing it as non-alcoholic in the first place, it takes longer.”
In the past, brewers creating a non-alcoholic beer would brew a regular one and then boil off the alcohol. Either that or they would make a beer with a weak yeast to prevent fermentation into alcohol. Neither of these methods were renowned for creating delicious beers.
Now, there are a great array of methods brewers can turn to in order to produce better tasting drinks. Methods include reverse osmosis, in which beer is passed through a semipermeable membrane that filters out the alcohol, and vacuum distillation, in which an artificial vacuum is created to allow the beer to be boiled at a lower temperature to retain more flavour.
“Those old school ones, where you would just brew a beer and then you boil the alcohol off, you have one of those and it tastes like mouldy cabbage,” says Pete Brown, a beer expert and author. “With the new ones, there’s such a snap change in terms of flavour.”
I find it remarkable that we now have non-alcoholic beers and wines that are perfectly drinkable. I would call out Brooklyn Brewery’s and Leitz’s examples, respectively, as exemplary. They’re not “cheap”, but also not particularly expensive.
I remain utterly unconvinced by any of the “non-alcoholic spirits” out there, but the non-alcoholic programs by the likes of Dave Arnold (Existing Conditions, Bar Contra) have proven that faux-spirits are unnecessary to making amazing-tasting adult drinks that are alcohol-free. The cost of those drinks is as high as the alcoholic ones, and I’m sure that value perception remains a chronic issue with them.