The Daiquiri Dossier

daiquiri
rum
#1

The Rum Reader has committed itself to the infinite study of the crucial rum sour, the Daiquiri. We’ve organized several symposia with bartenders and drinks historians across the country, and plan to keep on doing so.

But in kicking off discussion of this important subject, we turned to @AudreySaunders who produced this excellent brass tacks essay on how she approaches the drink. As I feel there will necessarily be overlap between the S&C community and Daiquiri disciples, I offer the following.

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#2

I read this when you first published it. An impeccable dissection of the elements that make this drink sing.

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#3

Yes! A great read!

For me, the elephant in the room for any Daiquiri discussion is the gaping void in the market of a rum that is truly like the old Carta Blanca. Once you’ve gone there, you can never truly go back. There’s an elusive set of characteristics—aromatics for sure, but also a balance of other things I cannot pin down—that make the old juice perform uniquely. Perhaps one day, someone will crack the code? Hope springs eternal in the human breast.

So, in my mind, I now draw a conscious distinction between a “Daiquiri” (big D) and a “daiquiri” (little d), the first being a Cuban drink made with an extinct Cuban rum, the latter being the myriad adaptations of the concept that incorporates the vast diversity of the rum category. The latter can be as sublime as any drink can be, if you nail it. Here’s how!

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#4

Within what they call the ‘Professional Editions’, Havana Club launched last year their take on the old Carta Blanca. They asked the head bartender at El Floridita what rum he would like to work with (the series is developed in collaboration with bartenders) and he said he’d love to have something closer to pre-revolutionary Cuban rum.
The brand reached out to retired Cuban rum industry pros and, armed with their feedback, one of their master distillers worked on the juice.
It doesn’t have an age mention but it’s aged longer than your standard HC3 - about 4 years if I remember correctly. It retains the freshness of HC3, with added depth and complexity. It’s quite nice, and makes a great Daiquiri. I think @AudreySaunders and @RobertHess had a taste last year in Cuba.
They didn’t use a pot still though.

20

(Ad from 1914)

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#5

Most intriguing. A little extra age might be part of puzzle.

#6

They should have used a pot still. Not sure if what we tasted was the final product, but it definitely did not strike me as a Daiquiri rum. Based on that particular sticking point, I had a lengthy conversation with them afterwards, and provided a good deal of feedback. I’m not sure what the end result was- I haven’t tasted it since.

#7

If I remember correctly, the second rum of the series, made in collaboration with Nick Strangeway (I believe you also tasted it?), was changed before its official release at Bar Convent Berlin. Not sure about the one we’re discussing. I have a bootle of an earlier release, made for Floridita’s anniversary in October 2017 and it would be interesting to taste them side by side. Personally, I like how it works in a Daiquiri.
I may try and bring a bottle with me next time I’m over.

Re the pot still, the interesting thing about the ad is that it comes, according to what I heard, a full three years after the pot still was actually retired. And many, many years after Bacardi introduced the column. So I’m not sure how accurate it is or how much pot still there actually was in Cuban rums when the Daiquiri got popular Stateside.

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#8

It’s fascinating how Bacardi built the best-selling spirit in the world while incrementally changing not only how it was produced, but how it tastes, from pot still rum all the way to something only marginally different from vodka. And they not only got away with it, they were rewarded.